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If the item has a full PSA/DNA or JSA LOA, they're both about equal in my opinion, because that means a paid authenticator actually inspected the signature(s).

Look for any inconsistencies or errors in the COA, such as misspellings or incorrect information. If the COA looks like it was hastily put together or has a lot of errors, it may be a . Verify the issuer's contact information: The COA should include contact information for the authentication service.

Look for a certificate of authenticity: Many sellers will provide a certificate of authenticity (COA) with the autograph. This is a document that verifies the authenticity of the signature and provides information about the item, such as the date and location it was signed.

Prove It. ... Where did it come from? ... Check against verified examples. ... What is it written on, and what is it written with? ... Are the author's handwriting quirks present? ... Does it look right? ... Autopen or Computer? ... Has a secretary signed or stamped it?

Either a Certificate of Authenticity (COA) or a Letter of Authenticity (LOA) is issued with the genuine autograph. The document contains the same alphanumeric serial number to match the label on the item.

When the ink color and tone of the autograph exactly matches either the color and tone of the printed text (or at least some of it), and/or the image on the same page, that is a sign that they were all printed together. In that case, you are most likely seeing a printed autograph and not a real hand-signed one.

PSA/DNA One of the most well-known and respected autograph authentication companies is PSA/DNA. They have been in business for over 25 years and have authenticated millions of autographs.